Best Steak Frites 2004
Best French Fries 2008. It doesn't have to be Bastille Day to crave all the great things a classic French bistro offers: mussels, escargot, cassoulet, and, best of all, a mound of salty, crunchy French fries. And Chef Eleazar Perez knows how to make fries super crisp and super tasty: 1) use fresh spuds; 2) make daily batches; 3) cook 'em twice. 'We cook them halfway through before refrigerating them until an order comes in,' says owner David Masliah. Besides saving cooking time on orders, it gets rid of a lot of starch for a cleaner, crisper taste.' The half-inch thin-cut Idahos are deep-fried in canola oil (no trans fat!), topped with kosher salt, and served in a cone-shaped container lined with faux newspaper. According to Masliah, most diners prefer ketchup with their fries but occasionally someone will ask for vinegar; the dip favored by Belgians as well as Canadians and Brits. 'If you ask me,' Masliah says, mayonnaise is the way to go.'