Mamaroneck resident Manny Lozano, previously sous chef at L’Absinthe in Manhattan, is the executive chef at this French bistro serving steak frites, Mediterranean sea bass, oven-roasted cod, and braised veal with risotto, peas, and pancetta. For dessert: raspberry Napoleon or dark-chocolate Marquise. Outdoor seating available. Open Tues through Sat for lunch and dinner, with brunch and dinner on Sun. Reservations recommended on weekends.
Coffee with Manny Lozano
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How do you know a bistro is good? Is it the frites? The onglet? The mussels in winey broth? Actually, the key to a great bistro is a fabulous frisée salad, the humble, crunchy pileup of bacon, lettuce, and egg. Though often compelling (who can resist those Gallic Bac-Os, lardons?), Bistro Rollin’s version offers addictive, tiny croutons, and vinaigrette so carefully pitched that the salad’s running egg yolk completes the perfect sauce.