Don’t call it ice cream. Don’t call it soft-serve. Abbott’s Frozen Custard has less than 2 percent air (8 percent less than ice cream and 38 percent less than soft-serve), yielding a creamy-soft frozen dessert that is as thick as it is delicious (credit the high percentage of butterfat and egg yolk for the yum factor). Flavors change daily, but we favor the black raspberry, maple walnut, and butterscotch. Be sure to get a cone during the warm-weather months; Abbott’s is open only from late March through October.