Restaurant Review: The Peekskill Brewery

Killer beers and many decent apps, but main dishes that disappoint



Chicken-liver parfait with onion jam, red wine gelée, and hazelnuts

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Chicken-liver parfait with onion jam, red wine gelée, and hazelnutsPeekskill Brewery                       ★★
47-53 S Water St, Peekskill 
(914) 734-2337; peekskillbrewery.com

Hours: Tap Room: Mon-Thurs, 3 pm-midnight;
            Fri, 3 pm-1 am; Sat, noon-1 am; Sun, noon-midnight
Pub: lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-5 pm; brunch, Sun, 11 am-4 pm; 
        dinner, Mon-Thurs, 5 pm-10 pm; Fri-Sat, 5 pm-11 pm;
        Sun, 4 pm-9 pm
Appetizers: $5-$13; entrées: $13-$16 (Tap Room), 
                   $13-$26 (Pub); dessert: $8 (Pub) 

   ★★★★—Excellent      ★★★—Good  
   ★★—Average             ★—Poor

 

Okay, so let’s all try to get together and accept the fact that there was a bad brewpub fad in the ’90s when it seemed that every Podunk town had a bar that brewed beer. It soon became obvious that the beers at the average brewpub were amateurish (and their standard pub fare was nothing to write home about, either). Like dinner theater or singing waiters, it seemed that those ’90s-era brewery + restaurants took on two disparate tasks and managed to excel at neither one.

Cue the magical Sam Calagione of the fabled Dogfish Head Brewery, who, in 2011, teamed up with Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich, as well as other brewers, for Eataly’s Birreria. Finally, the restaurant world would see a top-tier brewing team paired with equally elite restaurateurs. The fans went wild; at Birreria, the cask-conditioned ales (hand-pumped from wooden barrels) were a beautiful complement to Birreria’s rustic, house-made salumi; imported cheeses; and excellent grilled sausages, meats, and fish. Birreria’s Manhattan rooftop biergarten doesn’t hurt the enterprise, either.

Taking a page from Eataly’s Birreria, Peekskill Brewery made some big moves in 2012—not the least of which was decamping from its tight 55 Hudson Avenue digs. PB now occupies the glorious, four-story former furniture warehouse at 47-53 South Water Street. Not only does the new space afford room for more beer production, it also offers room for growth. Look for the Tap Room on the first floor and the slightly more formal Pub on the second floor. The owners have toyed with the idea of a future third floor public-arts space, a fourth-floor banquet hall, and, like Birreria, a rooftop biergarten with views of the Hudson River. But the biggest move occurred just before PB relocated. In the fall of 2011, PB’s owners, Morgan and Keith Berardi, lured Jeff O’Neil, Ithaca Brewing Co.’s star brewer, to take over their tanks. Since then, Peekskill Brewery has gone from a small-town brewpub to a serious brewery with beers on tap across Westchester and in New York City.

 
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