Photo by John Bruno Turiano
273 Halstead Ave; 914.732.3333
There’s a gourmand’s thoughtfulness behind Chef Constantine Kalandranis’ plates, even when he cooks something as ubiquitous as a burger. A half-pound of expertly marbled, grass-fed Chairman’s Reserve ground short rib is served on a bun (fresh from nearby Harrison Bakery), rubbed with garlic and rosemary oil. Atop, a standout stewed, red-wine onion jam is blanketed by aged mild and nutty fontina. It’s served with hand-cut fries, a lemon-and-garlic pickle, plus, being a Mediterranean restaurant, tzatziki or harissa aioli for dipping.