Chef-O-Rama

What the hell is going on at Crabtree’s Kittle House? First Wine Director Don Castaldo was let go when Glen Vogt joined John Crabtree as partner (see GM-O-Rama), and now “Co-Executive Chef” Anibal Romero has, according to Vogt, “left to pursue other opportunities.” To be honest, the situation always seemed a little crazy to us. Chef Romero, who had worked his way up through the ranks at Crabtree’s, was asked to share Executive Chef duties with “Co-Executive Chef” Kevin Bertrand, after Bertrand was hired two years ago. Currently, Executive Chef Kevin Bertrand is the sole survivor in this game of Battleship—and we wonder if he feels lonely. We doubt it.

Reader Comments:

Old to new | New to old

Jul 2, 2008 11:09 pm

Posted by spottieottiedopealicious

(zing!)

dear eater,

please clarify if you have a chance. i havent been to crabtrees in a while, but its always been really good when ive gone....has the staffing change resulted in a lesser quality restaurant?

i would appreciate some clarity to your insider-esque post.

thanks,
a faithful reader and fan

Jul 7, 2008 12:23 pm

Posted by EATER

Hi Spottieottie (and is your name from that Beat drink, wine spodiodi, that Jack Kerouac and Jerry Lee Lewis maed famous?)--

I'll be doing a full review in Westchester Magazine's August Issue, with a more detailed look at the Crabtree's KH food and wine. But in short, the food is still great--and it's good, too. John Crabtree has always been a loyal supporter of local producers like Captain Lawrence, Rainbeau Ridge, and various scroungers and foragers. While one of the "Co-Exceutive" Chefs has moved on, the remaining chef will maintain a consistent output in the kitchen.

As for wines, I know that when we visited, we were drinking wines probably purchased during former Wine Director Don Castaldo's reign, and the list we saw was probably his, too. I think the KH cellar is so huge that any change will take a while to become manifest in the dining room. Also, Glen Vogt, who is now partner and GM, has a very strong wine background.

I did have some quibbles beside food and wine, mostly related to service and decor, but I maintain that the $115 tasting menu with paired wines at Crabtree's KH is the best fine dining deal going.

Thanks for reading -- I really appreciate your support.
JS

Jul 7, 2008 03:51 pm

Posted by spottieottiedopealicious

Spottieottiedopalicious is actually the name of a favorite song... by Outkast. (Amazon mp3 link here: http://www.amazon.com/SpottieOttieDopaliscious-Explicit/dp/B0013GJ5CO/ref=dm_ap_trk9). great horns (and lyrics) :)

never heard of the beat drink, but looked it up. Unverified source says its a layered, three shot drink: cheap port, cheap whiskey, and another layer of cheap port.

sounds like hangover city.

Jul 8, 2008 09:42 am

Posted by EATER

Well, that makes sense--Outkast has always had a sense of culture and history. I caught their "Idlewild" recently. Wine spodiodi--or spo-dee-o-dee, was mentioned in a few 'Fifties-era things, especially in Kerouac's book, "On the Road". I agree with you, it sounds absolutely vile.
Shake it like a Polaroid picture--
JS

Jul 17, 2008 01:57 pm

Posted by Anonymous

I have eaten at CKH at least 5 times because of its convenience to my home, and for other practical reasons. It has not lived up to my expectations once. I gave it the benefit of the doubt a few times, because it was lunch, another time because there was a large group enjoying a wedding reception, now I am simply going to other places.

Monteverde, overlooking the Hudson, for instance.