Crowds: the New Black

By Julia Sexton

Do you remember when Spain was the new Italy, and brown was the new black? On the current Westchester restaurant scene, the ultimate must-have is not gigantic light fixtures, improbable bar materials, or even elite cocktails. The hottest restaurant trend right now is other diners.

Why? Because it’s depressing to sacrifice your dwindling dining dollar to find an empty dining room with speakers turned to eleven to disguise a critical lack of hubbub. While you could be comforted in the knowledge that your delicious meal is a charitable gesture toward the restaurant, in fact, diners don’t go out for charity. We go to feel good, to see other people, to have fun, to take part in a scene. In restaurants (just as in dating), there’s no room for pity. Desperation kills.

So what to do? When we want a crowd, we hit the growing number of themed dinners currently being offered around Westchester. These fun, boisterous evenings are a good-value way to meet other diners, and maybe even learn something. Booze (often unlimited) is included in the price of the meal, and these nights have us forgetting the economic crisis to simply party down with like-minded folks. And isn’t that what we all need right now?

Here are some recent hits, though get on your favorite restaurant’s e-mail list (or check its website) to find many more upcoming events. They’re happening all around the county, and at every price point:

BLT Steak/Ridge Winery (Tuesday, March 24)
One of the strangest things about BLT is that it apparently is unfazed by the economy. Case in point: a briskly served, scrumptious dinner with Ridge Winery staffer Eric Baugher. The joint was packed (on a Tuesday!), with Baugher dropping by tables to offer the sort of nuts and bolts insight into winemaking that makes the result so much more enjoyable. Droughts, floods, bugs—honestly, winemaking is like a bible flick—but the folks at Ridge are doing the right thing with ethical, non-chemical winemaking techniques. They sacrifice volume (and profit) to produce something that makes them proud, and you can absolutely taste that in the glass.

The evening cost $125 per person, and was a bargain, given usual tabs at BLT. Four courses, with additional amuse bouche and madeleines, overseen by LT (Laurent Tourandel) himself, were accompanied by generous refills of not-so-cheap wines. One vintage was the crisply mineral (yet still complex) 2006 Ridge “Estate” Chardonnay from Santa Cruz Mountains (which retails locally for about $60 per bottle—I know ‘cause I wanted to buy some myself), while another was the Ridge 2004 “Montebello,” which currently is sold out, but the 2003 and 2005 vintages retail over $100 per bottle. And, folks, they were just throwing the stuff around.

Of course, there also were tons of great BLT food, including the crack-like popovers, a memorable seven-spice Maple Leaf duck breast with mango mustarda, lobes of foie gras and celery purée, and a yummy prime sirloin with an absolutely stellar grilled radicchio that left me rooting around my plate, perfectly content that spring has not quite sprung. Best of all, the joint was packed and happy, which is the finest accompaniment to dinner nowadays.

Half Moon/Captain Lawrence Dinner (Friday, Feb 27) Scott Vaccaro, infant-aged master brewer and owner of Pleasantville’s Captain Lawrence Brewery, was on hand for a hearty mid-winter party at Half Moon, where dishes like a soulful New York cheddar soup with smoked kielbasa in a pumpernickel boule were served with Captain Lawrence smoked porter. Big hits in the five-course, beer-backed hoe-down were a crisp and succulent fish and chips—best I’ve had in a long while—with a bright, sophisticated fennel slaw and jalapeño tartar sauce (served with Captain Lawrence Liquid Gold), and a fabulous braised short ribs served with horseradish mashed potatoes and cider-glazed carrrots (served with Captain Lawrence stout). The food was on-season, on-target, and the Pleasantville-made beer was great—plus, the joint was packed. In fact, we ended up in some kind of Outer Hebrides lobe of the parking lot, so jammed was it with customers.

Congenial Executive Chef Vincent Barcelona was on hand to re-arrange every outgoing plate and visually intimidate his crack staff, while Vaccaro visited every table to discuss his carefully crafted brews. The kicker here is that the whole evening cost $42 plus tax and tip, and would have been a bargain at twice the price.

Sausage and Beer Dinner, Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Sunday, January 25) As I wrote in this space in February, BHSB debuted its jaw-dropping party space with a raucous beer-and-sausage dinner that also welcomed back the prodigious charcuterie gifts of Chef Adam Kaye. I covered the great room because it was newsy, but here’s the thing: the meal was just as good. Plus, here we were all the food world glitterati, dressed up and in the tres elegant room, and people got really drunk! On beer! Gracious host David Barber had to stand and tactfully suggest that we take advantage of car service when he heard communal tables of diners (previously strangers) get louder and louder, happier and happier. I spoke with child-brewer Scott Vaccaro (of Captain Lawrence) after the night, and he mused, “It started out so normal, but then it just got wild…” In fact, he admits to being less-than-chipper himself when Monday morning came.

Yes, the beer flowed—but so did the food. $190 (plus tax and tip—a bargain, given BHSB’s usual pricing) bought gallons of locally made boutique beer and an endless parade of hors d’oeuvres, followed by a six-course royal, beer-based banquet. Freebies like the wonderful whipped, salted lard that accompanied pork-fat-glossed foccacia, or sparkling Mason jars of gorgeous pickled, homegrown baby vegetables, felt like icing on the sausage. Meanwhile, the main menu was simply stellar, with a Blue Hill charcuterie plate of coppa, toscano, fennel salami, bologna and jambon royale, yielding to choucroute garni (with moreau, boudin blanc and braised belly with sauerkraut), both as good as you’d expect from this culinary superstar. In fact, the last dish practically made my German dining neighbor, Thor, cry—though I admit, the speck, farm egg, brioche with charcuterie sauce even made me a little misty. Best of all, the three brewers were peppered throughout the crowd—and we learned a huge amount just chatting with our tablemates.

So: three different nights, three great parties—and all over-the-top celebrations of wine, beer, and food. Best of all, each party offered way more for your money than you could reasonable expect from the usual night out at a restaurant. Check your favorite restaurants for upcoming events.

Reader Comments:

Old to new | New to old

Comments, page 1 of 2 1 2 Next »

Apr 13, 2009 09:43 pm

Posted by anonymous2

I'm sorry but though I usually can find value in the strangest[expensive] places I did think that given the current economic mess $190 for 'Beer and Sausages' was a wee bit steep but as I've said before this 'crisis' is not affecting everyone equally. Either way, I'm glad you had fun but I hope someone else paid.

Apr 14, 2009 11:34 am

Posted by J. Sexton

Hey anony 2
Well, I take your point, but I think that Barber, Inc.'s tongue was firmly planted in cheek when they named this event. It would perhaps more accurately have been called "an evening of hand-made, artisanal ham, salumi and cured meats, made with locally-raised, heritage breed pork, with scores of supporting dishes made by one of the countries finest kitchens." There were all sorts of delicious, jewel-box hors d'oeuvres -- one witty take on a sausage roll, one a straightforward chocolate and foie gras canape, plus seven or eight others. Given that it's tough to escape BHSB (this month, named one of Saveur's 12 Best American Restaurants)for less than $250 per person on a regular night, I felt that the bravura, razzle-dazzle bounty available at this $190 event offered good value. My thinking here is that if you're going to to BHSB once or twice a year, then this event guarantees you'll get your money's worth.

And while the local beers don't carry the price tag of swank bottles of wine, the three micro brews featured at the dinner ain't cheap, either. Bottles from Kelso, Captain Laurence, and South Hampton breweries go you a tenspot at the grocery store (if you can find them) - sans a top flight meal, minutely designed to match each brew.

So, while I'm the first to sqawk ripoff when I get stung for a pricy meal that doesn't pay off on the plate,in the glass, or on the table, I can't say the thought even crossed my mind on that night....

Apr 14, 2009 12:30 pm

Posted by Bread Lady

Hi :

In the economic times I feel that we are being more choosy and looking for a whole dining experience which does include items like Communal tables at a sausage and beer fest or expanding your pallet with local artisinal food and drinks. What better way to re-connect with others (friends or strangers) in times when we really need it than that. Being more careful with the budget still allow for outings and perhaps more as real travel is more close to home. So, I am also probably forgoing the "too Tierd to cook" fast meals but I am still looking for those places and food experience that rejuvenate the spirit: Welcoming; Fun; Liveily; Relaxing; Peaceful; a chance to learn more and explore; escape from current struggles;(perhaps not all in 1 sitting!).

Apr 14, 2009 01:05 pm

Posted by J. Sexton

And aren't the convenient, too tired to cook meals always sort of a letdown, anyway? And never quite as cheap as you hoped! Might as well swear those mundane, everyday expenses off and budget for a few bigger-bang-for-the-buck events like the ones above. Of course, the IRS will have to pry my cold, dead hands off a monthly double cheeseburger at BSF.

Apr 16, 2009 02:59 pm

Posted by Bread Lady

Hi :

Are the restaurants adjusting to perhaps the new "demand" of customers post-recession? I think restaurants that have been always about the "whole" experience and satifing the spirit as well are doing better than the others but I am not sure I see an adjustment to the recession as a whole. your opinion?

PS: I think the math test to add blog entries is quite funny...

Apr 17, 2009 12:52 pm

Posted by J. Sexton

I remember talking to Chef P. Kelly about this and he said a wise thing: most successful restaurants at the top of the price scale will be fine (after all, you still have anniversaries and birthdays), and established joints at very the bottom are okay (you still come home to an empty kitchen and need to get take-out). It's all the not cheap - but not quite special event, either - places that are really struggling for the post-recession dollar. And they're closing at a rate that's truly horrifying. I spoke to a Westchester restaurateur who is opening another joint, and he that his hiring ad drew an overwhelming response: mobs of out-of-work restaurant workers showed up at his door.

And I do think restaurants are responding in the form of prix fixe deals, HV Restaurant Week extensions, marketing events like the ones I write about above, and - if an elite brand identity prevents them from looking like they're hustling for a dollar - dropped per-bottle wine prices. And even a newly svelt(ish) Mario BAtali showed up on the Times, crammed in a sandwich board, begging diners to hit the scene.

Apr 22, 2009 05:41 pm

Posted by Rdfx

I'm confused. For more than a year I have found myself surfing over to the Westchester Magazine website to read Eater. And for most of that time I found it interesting, informative and opinionated. It made me laugh, think, and even a few times, angry. It did exactly what I want a blog to do -- perk me up like a double espresso. Then in February or March the quality started to be sporadic. I would head to the page looking for a page of zingers and I'd get ambushed by an entry written by a local chef (can you say product placement?) or an insipid advertorial describing a local spot, like a cupcake bakery. (Is anyone over the age of 12 still seduced by the sight of a cupcake?). Sure there are the occasional pieces by Ms. Sexton but they are sadly infrequent. It's getting to the point where its not worth my time to check in just to be disappointed. So, is this there way to know when the blog will be written by Ms. Sexton and when it won't? Please let me know. Thx.

Apr 23, 2009 01:51 pm

Posted by Bread Lady

I totally agree with Rdfx (you are not the only one feeling this way..). Bring back the honest, informative, entertaining content! thanks

Jun 4, 2009 08:00 am

Posted by feedme

There is a restaurant in Fleetwood, Italian, it's been there for a few years. I've always had a great meal and a nice evening. It's Buona Sera on Gramatan Ave. There prices are very reasonable, even before the crunch.
They just received an "excellent" rating from Zagat. It is well deserved.
If you haven't been there, you must go!!!!!!
Try the zeppelle's for dessert or the chocolate lava cake if you have a real sweet tooth.

Jun 18, 2009 09:41 am

Posted by anonymous2

Wow, I agree with so many of you since I responded first, 2 months ago. I would always read the EATER but I was hugely disappointed at some point also b/c it reminded me of the chowhound westchester section which is like an small town rumor mill. Now 2 months, later I'm finally checking to see if ANYONE responded. My point was BHSB advertised Sausage and Beer and you never know what that could mean and for me to lay out $400 up front, I'd love to know what they might deliver, you can't say that's a bargain[if I'm paying that is]. In Manhattan/Brooklyn there are scores of places where there are true values,with outstanding food,[no, never a Rockefeller estate]and you leave thinking why can't we have this in Westchester? The answer is, this is suburbia, and MOST people are not going out M-W and MOST would have know clue what a pork belly is, face it, when it comes to food, this is no sophisticated food locale[let's not forget that Ms. Sexton was writing about 'finding crowds']. Also, since we're so close to farms...why did it take so long to get greenmarkets to flourish[well almost]yet they were thriving in the city for years? Anyone interested in a beer/food trip to Brooklyn[30 min. away]?, we'll start at a crowded greenmarket go to the the Brooklyn Brewery and from there...now that's 'tongue in cheek' - I got Barber's joke clearly - but thanks!

Comments, page 1 of 2 1 2 Next »