
Like devilled eggs, devils on horseback are having a moment in the sun, with restaurants like The Spotted Pig and Freemans offering versions of the vintage hors d’oeuvre. The dish starts with prunes that have been filled with blue cheese, which are then wrapped in bacon strips before being baked until crisp. True, these things are ugly—and no amount of mesclun can fix that—but they’re also sweet, and salty, and just the thing to pair with a drink. Check these ugly devils out at Tuckahoe’s new Growlers Beer Bistro.
Julia Sexton, restaurant critic, food writer, and CRMA award-winning blogger, is a rampant traveler who will go anywhere to try anything. When not furtively sneaking cinghiale sausage past airport bag sniffers, she cooks and writes at her home in New Rochelle. A regular in Westchester Magazine’s pages, where she reviews local restaurants, Sexton’s food writing has also appeared in the New York Times and the Boston Globe. This fall, look for the debut of Sexton's book, Hudson Valley Chef's Table, published by Globe Pequot Press. She'd love to hear from you, so email any rants, questions, and comments to the Eaterline, jsextoneater@gmail.com. Follow Julia Sexton on Twitter @JuliaSexton