
I’ve always loved the Shakespearean prohibition against “gilding the lily.” It’s the perfect warning against the apparently human compulsion to screw up something that’s naturally beautiful. In that vein, this week’s EDP is giving a shout-out to a naturally perfect dish: it’s a lily of wood-toasted bread served under a dice of chopped, seasonal heirloom tomatoes. There’s a little oil, some basil, some salt, great tomatoes, and bread. It’s the edible analog of a supermodel who’s not wearing any makeup.
Julia Sexton, restaurant critic, food writer, and CRMA award-winning blogger, is a rampant traveler who will go anywhere to try anything. When not furtively sneaking cinghiale sausage past airport bag sniffers, she cooks and writes at her home in New Rochelle. A regular in Westchester Magazine’s pages, where she reviews local restaurants, Sexton’s food writing has also appeared in the New York Times and the Boston Globe. This fall, look for the debut of Sexton's book, Hudson Valley Chef's Table, published by Globe Pequot Press. She'd love to hear from you, so email any rants, questions, and comments to the Eaterline, jsextoneater@gmail.com. Follow Julia Sexton on Twitter @JuliaSexton